Cameos
History of the cameos
Cameos are obtained by engraving gems (amethyst, emerald topaz, ruby and even brilliant), semiprecious stones (agate, turquoise, malachite, lapis lazuli, jasper) and, from the early 1700s, shells. For the processing of the cameos, we distinguish three types of shell: the "Sardonyx" from the Caribbean or the Bahamas, with a brown background that makes the engraving sharper, the "Carnelian" tending to red, of African origin and finally the " Conchiglia rosa ”, from the Antilles, the least used because the uncertain background color does not give sufficient relief to the figure. These shells are in two-tone layers, the upper one being white for both while the lower one is red for the Carnelian and brown for the Sardonyx. It is worth remembering that if the Cameo boasts an ancient history and is a classic of world jewelery, Torre del Greco is the only place in the world where it is engraved on a shell.
History of the cameos
The first examples of cameos come from the Greek and Roman civilizations. These are engravings of heads and figures on hard stone and were also considered male ornaments. For millennia the material used and the illustrated subjects remained the same but during the Renaissance the classical ferments and the triumph of the figurative arts brought painters and sculptors far from this form of art closer to the cameo. The engraving was refined, the portrait was embellished with new elements and mythological subjects began to be reproduced, while remaining tied to the choice of semi-precious stones as the material to be engraved. Only at the turn of the nineteenth century the work began in Torre del Greco and instead of carving the hard stone, they began to carve shells.
The manufacturing of cameos
For the processing of the cameos, we distinguish three types of shell: the "Sardonyx" from the Caribbean or the Bahamas, with a brown background that makes the engraving sharper, the "Carnelian" tending to red, of African origin and finally the " Conchiglia rosa ”, from the Antilles, the least used because the uncertain background color does not give sufficient relief to the figure. After choosing the right shell, the first step in the manufacturing of the cameo is the cutting of the shell itself. This operation requires considerable expertise to understand what can be obtained from a piece if it is cut in a certain way rather than in another. It is evident, in fact, that there is a close relationship between the incision to be made and the morphological characteristics of the section of the shell that we have available. Subsequently the chosen part is consumed until it reaches the incision surface, then it is "clasped", that is, it is given the shape you want, finally with pitch it is fixed to the "spindle" so that it can be easily engraved.
At this point the artist will trace the essential lines of the drawing with a few strokes of pencil and then he will begin the engraving of the bas-relief using the "burin".
Thus came the cameos, unique and unrepeatable pieces, both for the morphological characteristics that distinguish each single shell, and for the artistic aspect dictated by the inspiration and skill of the cameist master.
When the engraving work is finished, the cameo must be cleaned, polished and finally assembled so that it becomes a real jewel.
Each cameo should be considered a unique example as it is impossible to obtain two cameos perfectly identical to each other both because it is an artisanal work done by hand, and because the final result is greatly influenced by the morphological characteristics of the piece of shell. disposes.
It has always been like this, nothing has changed. A timeless art and Torre del Greco is the home of the cameo.
Even today, as in the past, a cameo is beautiful when we can see precious details.
In order to obtain a beautiful jewel, it is necessary to start by choosing a thick shell with a beautiful color, that is to say that in the case of the shell called Sardonyx the background must be dark brown while for the Carnelian it must be of an intense brick red color.
On a beautiful shell the skilled hands of the "cameist master" will be able to engrave figures, faces or flowers rich in details and refined engraving.
It is very important that the richness of the details does not obscure their finishing.
To a cameo with many details only sketched out, we prefer one with a clean design with well-finished figures even if perhaps not too rich. For example, a beautiful woman's profile will have a graceful nose (the nose is one of the details that most reveal the master's ability), a rounded and not flat cheek, soft hair that accompanies the face.
It will then be the personal taste of the observer to make him prefer an extra flower, a necklace or other details that enrich the engraving.